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Summer In summer the sparrows never tire, And the oleanders keep their color, A deeper pink than the mind of man can imagine. In summer the heat-filled breeze Enters every tree And beckons humans to a waking dream. It is in summer that visions come, In June dawns That angels hide in the sky. |
My husband Wayne and I have just returned from a three-week adventure in London, Paris and a Riverboat Cruise down the Seine River to Normandy. Since the name of my blog is “Tea and Travels,” I will begin with Afternoon Tea at the venerable Savoy Hotel in London, but I hope to share many of the other highlights of this magnificent adventure in future blogs.
On this recent trip, on our way from Honolulu to London, we stopped in California, where Wayne and I both lived for many decades, from late childhood until our retirement. We wanted to visit the only remaining member of the Greatest Generation on either side of our family, Wayne’s one-hundred-year-old aunt, also named Rose Higashi.
On this recent trip, on our way from Honolulu to London, we stopped in California, where Wayne and I both lived for many decades, from late childhood until our retirement. We wanted to visit the only remaining member of the Greatest Generation on either side of our family, Wayne’s one-hundred-year-old aunt, also named Rose Higashi.
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In the neon night
At LAX, travelers wait On the chilly curb. |
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In El Segundo,
Blue plumbago blooms in the Salty coastal dawn. |
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When Wayne’s cousin Doug and his wife Tomoko brought us to Auntie Rose’s small, neat and tidy home in Gardena, nothing had changed in the sixty years that I have known her—the same rattan furniture with the same floral cushions, and although she has aged and her black hair has turned white, Auntie Rose’s perky, chatty, optimistic personality remains.
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While she chats with her Favorite nephew, Auntie eats Five shortbread cookies. |
I told her that I still use the Japanese cookbook, Nisei Favorites, that her church published back in 1962, and we still use the set of silver-plated flatware that she gave us as our wedding gift, an act of astounding generosity for the wife of a postman. I tried to hide my tears when this brief visit ended and Doug and Tomoko drove us back for our flight to London. But now I see that this entire journey, from Los Angeles to Omaha Beach, was really about honoring the past and about thanking those who went before us for their courage, their hopeful spirits, their creativity and their love for our fragile world.
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A magpie struts through Jumbled wild roses at a Bus stop in London. |
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For our fleeting four days in London, Wayne and I chose to focus on three areas of human experience, architecture, art and food. While we love all that is ancient and beautiful, the momentary world of sandwiches, scones and shortbread is of equal importance.
We had a reservation for Afternoon Tea at the Savoy Hotel, where we were staying, on the day we arrived. This two-hour respite of perfect food and ethereal tea in a breathtakingly beautiful environment was one of the loveliest tea parties I have ever attended. And it was a welcome reminder that the tea ritual itself is an art form of great beauty.
The Savoy is decorated throughout in understated Georgian elegance with classical and Baroque elements harmoniously arranged in a moss green, cream and gold palette. The Savoy’s tearoom, the Themes Foyer, is in the center of the hotel, just past the lobby and down a set of marble stairs. These stairs lead to an amazing Baroque wonderland with walls lined with Corinthian columns, a central dome decorated with green stained-glass flowers, and a crystal chandelier hanging above a creamy white gazebo with a green marble floor.
We had a reservation for Afternoon Tea at the Savoy Hotel, where we were staying, on the day we arrived. This two-hour respite of perfect food and ethereal tea in a breathtakingly beautiful environment was one of the loveliest tea parties I have ever attended. And it was a welcome reminder that the tea ritual itself is an art form of great beauty.
The Savoy is decorated throughout in understated Georgian elegance with classical and Baroque elements harmoniously arranged in a moss green, cream and gold palette. The Savoy’s tearoom, the Themes Foyer, is in the center of the hotel, just past the lobby and down a set of marble stairs. These stairs lead to an amazing Baroque wonderland with walls lined with Corinthian columns, a central dome decorated with green stained-glass flowers, and a crystal chandelier hanging above a creamy white gazebo with a green marble floor.
In the center of this gazebo is a grand piano played by an elegant blonde woman in a black evening gown and matching spiked heels. Throughout Afternoon Tea, she played time-tested romantic songs, including “Blue Moon,” “Misty,” and “I Can’t Help Falling in Love with You.” Our table was near the gazebo, and a large bouquet of pale pink roses and greenery had been placed there, ordered secretly in advance by Wayne, my true love, a master of symbolic gestures and few words.
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Our waiters were two young Asian men in impeccable white jackets with black piping, who turned out to be a perfectly synchronized team. Their name tags identified them as Avatar and Stephane, and their attentive service was worthy of their elegant names. From the long list of teas and tisanes available, we chose for the savory course Chinese Pu-er and an herbal tisane with ginger, lemon and fennel, and for the sweets course Japanese Gyokuro, a green tea, and the Savoy Black Tea Blend. Avatar and Stephane appeared at just the right moment with pots of steaming tea and silver strainers, pouring out tea for us into the floral Wedgwood cups designed exclusively for the Savoy. They returned repeatedly with silver pitchers of hot water, and we never had to fill our own cups.
The sandwiches, on perfectly fresh bread, and not refrigerated because they had just been made, arrived on an oblong sandwich tray of the same lovely floral pattern as the teacups. We enjoyed egg salad on white bread, curried chicken salad with raisins on brown bead, fresh ripe tomato sandwiches with avocado cream, outstanding smoked salmon with cucumbers, and open-faced sandwiches of tiny shrimps on rounds of black bread. A charming little tart of spring peas on pea puree concluded the savory course.
We were offered both raisin and plain scones, served with lemon curd, butter and strawberry jam. They were perfect, and Avatar assured us that we were welcome to have more sandwiches and scones at any time. We declined his generous offer, as the sweets course, on a charming, tiered server, was on its way.
Our waiters were two young Asian men in impeccable white jackets with black piping, who turned out to be a perfectly synchronized team. Their name tags identified them as Avatar and Stephane, and their attentive service was worthy of their elegant names. From the long list of teas and tisanes available, we chose for the savory course Chinese Pu-er and an herbal tisane with ginger, lemon and fennel, and for the sweets course Japanese Gyokuro, a green tea, and the Savoy Black Tea Blend. Avatar and Stephane appeared at just the right moment with pots of steaming tea and silver strainers, pouring out tea for us into the floral Wedgwood cups designed exclusively for the Savoy. They returned repeatedly with silver pitchers of hot water, and we never had to fill our own cups.
The sandwiches, on perfectly fresh bread, and not refrigerated because they had just been made, arrived on an oblong sandwich tray of the same lovely floral pattern as the teacups. We enjoyed egg salad on white bread, curried chicken salad with raisins on brown bead, fresh ripe tomato sandwiches with avocado cream, outstanding smoked salmon with cucumbers, and open-faced sandwiches of tiny shrimps on rounds of black bread. A charming little tart of spring peas on pea puree concluded the savory course.
We were offered both raisin and plain scones, served with lemon curd, butter and strawberry jam. They were perfect, and Avatar assured us that we were welcome to have more sandwiches and scones at any time. We declined his generous offer, as the sweets course, on a charming, tiered server, was on its way.
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The sweets were the crowning jewels of Afternoon Tea at the Savoy. They were gorgeously decorated individual pastries, as fresh as they could possibly be. The well-balanced selection included two rich chocolate ganache pastries decorated with gold leaf, one pure dark chocolate, and one filled with coconut cream. There were also deeply flavored fresh raspberry gelatins served with tiny shortbread fingers and classic spring fruit tarts with pastry cream. Afternoon Tea at the Savoy provided us with a memory to treasure forever.
The following day, we had a reservation at Claridge’s, another famous London Afternoon Tea destination. Claridge’s is known for its Art Nouveau ambience and its excellent sandwiches, scones and sweets served on aqua and white striped 1920s style China. When we arrived, we noted that Claridge’s also has a pianist, this time accompanied by a violinist, playing the same songs that we heard at the Savoy.
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The sandwiches were fresh and delicious, and the scones were warm and perfectly crispy on the outside and soft within, right out of the oven. They were served with butter and Claridge’s signature Marco Polo Jelly, a tasty combination of mixed fruits. Although Claridge’s does not serve clotted cream with the scones, every customer is sent home with a complimentary and generously sized square of divine and decadent Clotted Cream Fudge.
The decor at Claridge’s tearoom evokes the Roaring Twenties, an era from a hundred years ago with Flappers dancing the Charleston, smoking cigarettes in long cigarette holders and drinking Martinis, although none of that behavior actually occurs during afternoon tea. The walls are covered with silvery arched mirrors, and a huge “modern” glass chandelier with undulating snake-like shapes hangs over a central table covered by tall clear glass vases filled with a profusion of white, pink and violet spring flowers.
Unfortunately, the room is much smaller than the Themes Foyer at the Savoy, and loud conversations filled the atmosphere. It was very crowded while we were there; the tables were close together and we felt cramped. Sadly, the service was also utterly neglectful, which was disappointing. There were lots of people working there, maybe even more employees than customers, but busy as they seemed, they were inattentive and careless, and nobody ever offered to pour our tea. Two women who worked at the front desk even dropped a three-tiered server, designed to stand on the floor, onto the back of my chair with a loud crash. Although the food was fresh and well prepared, nothing in our experience at Claridge’s compared to our magical afternoon at the Savoy.
In future blogs I hope to share the wonders of London architecture, including palaces and churches, and describe our adventures in the fabulous British Museum and the fun we had at the Beatrix Potter show at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Meanwhile, if our magical afternoon at the Savoy piqued your interest in the traditional English Afternoon Tea ritual, you are certainly invited to peruse “A Classic British Afternoon Tea” in the “A World of Tea Parties” section of this website. Our menu includes a selection of sandwiches, scones and sweets very similar to the memorable food we ate at the Savoy and Claridge’s.
Afternoon Tea in the British tradition does not rely on innovative, trendy, expensive or complicated recipes. It is old-fashioned, simple food, prepared with meticulous attention to detail and freshness, using seasonal ingredients and focusing on elegant visual presentation. Though Avatar and Stephane might not be there to pour your tea, you can host a tea party for your family and friends in the dignified tradition of the Savoy in your own home or garden. In fact, the “Tea Menu Basics” chapter of “The Tea Book” on this website provides you with free recipes for the sandwiches, scones and lemon curd that we recently enjoyed in Merry Old England. I hope to see you next month at Hampton Court Palace!
The decor at Claridge’s tearoom evokes the Roaring Twenties, an era from a hundred years ago with Flappers dancing the Charleston, smoking cigarettes in long cigarette holders and drinking Martinis, although none of that behavior actually occurs during afternoon tea. The walls are covered with silvery arched mirrors, and a huge “modern” glass chandelier with undulating snake-like shapes hangs over a central table covered by tall clear glass vases filled with a profusion of white, pink and violet spring flowers.
Unfortunately, the room is much smaller than the Themes Foyer at the Savoy, and loud conversations filled the atmosphere. It was very crowded while we were there; the tables were close together and we felt cramped. Sadly, the service was also utterly neglectful, which was disappointing. There were lots of people working there, maybe even more employees than customers, but busy as they seemed, they were inattentive and careless, and nobody ever offered to pour our tea. Two women who worked at the front desk even dropped a three-tiered server, designed to stand on the floor, onto the back of my chair with a loud crash. Although the food was fresh and well prepared, nothing in our experience at Claridge’s compared to our magical afternoon at the Savoy.
In future blogs I hope to share the wonders of London architecture, including palaces and churches, and describe our adventures in the fabulous British Museum and the fun we had at the Beatrix Potter show at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Meanwhile, if our magical afternoon at the Savoy piqued your interest in the traditional English Afternoon Tea ritual, you are certainly invited to peruse “A Classic British Afternoon Tea” in the “A World of Tea Parties” section of this website. Our menu includes a selection of sandwiches, scones and sweets very similar to the memorable food we ate at the Savoy and Claridge’s.
Afternoon Tea in the British tradition does not rely on innovative, trendy, expensive or complicated recipes. It is old-fashioned, simple food, prepared with meticulous attention to detail and freshness, using seasonal ingredients and focusing on elegant visual presentation. Though Avatar and Stephane might not be there to pour your tea, you can host a tea party for your family and friends in the dignified tradition of the Savoy in your own home or garden. In fact, the “Tea Menu Basics” chapter of “The Tea Book” on this website provides you with free recipes for the sandwiches, scones and lemon curd that we recently enjoyed in Merry Old England. I hope to see you next month at Hampton Court Palace!
